Aspen, Vail - Not for Skiing Only

Vail, Aspen, the names summon images of skiers andAmerica's highest city. It's been more than 100 years
snowboarders flashing down steep slopes of pristine,since Doc Holiday killed two men in Leadville and
powdery snow, forests of trees covered withSoapy Smith and his thugs ruled the town, over a
Christmas lights, pricey shops, tony restaurants andcentury since Wyatt Earp and Bat Masterson walked
fancy hotels. Now think summer. Think of hotel ratesthe streets and Leadville Johnny Brown and his young
which may be half those of winter. Think ofwife Molly gave parties.
restaurant discounts and bargains at fashionableThe gambling tables and brothels are gone, but you
shops. Think of carefully groomed golf courses.Thinkcan still belly up to a bar where Buffalo Bill Cody and
of rafting and canoeing and hiking, concerts andthe James brothers downed their drinks and the
dance and theater. Then think of a drive alongrestored 1866 Delaware Hotel from the rough days
mountains more than 14,000 feet high.of wealth and sin remains open for guests. The
The two resorts are 90 miles apart just around theTabor Opera House, once described as the finest
corner in western terms of distance.between St. Louis and San Francisco, still stands,
The best way of seeing both of them during thealthough in need of refurbishing. It is open for tours
summer is an auto trip that takes you throughfrom May 30 to Oct. 1.
passes as high as 12,095 feet. It goes throughOnce past downtown, there are unobstructed views
Leadville with its history of colorful characters asto the west of Colorado's highest peaks, Mt.Elbert at
Wyatt Earp, Doc Holiday, Baby Doe and the14,433 feet and Mt. Massive, only 12 feet lower.
Unsinkable Molly Brown. It takes you into trendyMt. Elbert continues to dominate the western skyline
Aspen with its tree-lined streets and sandstone andas Rt. 24 continues south from Leadville. Fifteen miles
brick buildings, then over to Glenwood Springs namedlater Rt. 82 intersects. We turn right toward Aspen.
for its warm mineral water pools and caves and fromDriving west, Mt. Elbert looms larger on our right. On
there east to your starting point.the left is the Twin Lakes Reservoir, popular for
Vail is where most visitors are likely to start the trip,fishing and camping.
since it's a direct, slightly less than two hour' driveBeyond Twin Lakes, the highway climbs in a
from Denver via the I-70 interstate.continuing succession of unguarded curves and hairpin
Vail is beautiful during the ski season, its beautyturns to Independence Pass, which crosses the
augmented by the brilliant whiteness of newly fallenSawsatch Range at 12,095 feet. The pass is sensibly
powder snow on the dark mountains. In the summer,closed doing the snow season.
Vail's beauty comes from the dark greens of theOn either side of the pass are turnoffs and parking
evergreens, the lighter green leaves and white trunksspaces and footpaths where sightseers are offered
of aspens, the dazzling blue of the sky anda feast of mountains, streams and dense forested
processions of cumulus clouds rubbing against thewilderness.
sharp peaks of the mountains.West of Independence Pass, Route 82 dives down
Summer visitors come to golf on five top-ratedthe canyon of the Roaring Fork River. The Roaring
courses. Younger and more vigorous tourists comeFork flows through Aspen, which got its start as a
to mountain bike, torturing muscles and lungs bysilver mining center in the 1880s, but found gold
pumping up steep mountain roads and trails or takingnearly a century later as a ski resort. Located in a
a ski lift to the top of a high peak and plunging downglacial valley surrounded by magnificent peaks,
its side on two wheels, dodging rocks and holes andupscale Aspen, with its many rust-colored buildings
small animals, staging a heart-stopping, animateddating from the turn of the century and mature
display of why Vail has one of the nation's largesttrees shading the downtown streets, gives the
hospitals specializing in sports injuries and rehabilitation.impression of more permanence and history than
Older and less vigorous tourists are likely to restrictmodern Vail.
their athletic activities to hikes, canoeing or fishing onBoth are trendy and pricey, the playgrounds of
a peaceful mountain lake, viewing the Vail Valley frommovie and rock stars and a billionaire or two.Vail is a
a hot air balloon, or riding horses through parts of thegolfers' paradise, but Aspen ups Vail by also offering
surrounding national forest.travel by helicopter, underground trips through old
In the summer, Vail Village resembles a sidewalk salesilver mines and treks into the back country with a
of skis, jackets and other winter equipment andllama to carry your gear.
clothing marked down as much as 50 percent,Aspen also has the edge on culture, earning an
sometimes more. In the winter, its impossible to findinternational reputation for its annual summer jazz and
a hotel offering rates lower than $125 a day or bedclassical music festivals.
and breakfasts under $100. Summer hotel rates areWe linger in Aspen only long enough to window shop
as low as $59. Many restaurants also cut their pricesat the fashionable shops and galleries and to people
during the summer or offer two for one specials.watch as we nibble on crepes served from an old
My wife and I stayed at the Minturn Inn, a rustic butpopcorn wagon standing outside near one of several
comfortable bed and breakfast in Minturn, an olddowntown fountains.
mining and railroad town five miles from Vail Valley.Then its back on Route 82 to follow the Roaring
Many of the town's weathered buildings have beenFork River through red rock canyons to Glenwood
converted into inns, excellent restaurants and aSprings.
variety of small, arty shops and galleries, selling itemsThe Ute Indians regarded the hot springs and vapor
as Indian head dresses, buffalo heads and lightcaves as a sacred place of healing. The old gunslinger
fixtures made from elk horn.Doc Holiday may have hoped to find confirmation in
Minturn's main street is Route 24, aptly named thethat Indian belief when he came to Glenwood Springs
Top of the Rockies Highway, which leads off I-70afflicted by tuberculosis. If so, he was disappointed.
just west of Vail. Its the most scenic route to takeHis grave is now a tourist attraction.
on the first leg of the trip to Aspen.But most visitors come to swim and bathe in the hot
South of Minturn, Route 24 begins a sharp ascent.water pools, or try to sweat away tensions and
Off to the right is the 14,005 foot high Mount of thestiffness in the caves.
Holy Cross. The 1,500 foot cross, created by naturalAfter drying off, we start on a fast 60-mile drive
crevices in the face of the mountain, can be seenback to Vail via I-70. For the first 12 miles, we follow
high on the northwest side of the peak.the Colorado River as it courses through the scenic
Continuing toward Leadville, we came into a high,Glenwood Canyon. The stream is swift here and
level valley nestled between mountain ranges. Here isendowed with challenging rapids with names like
the site of Camp Hale, where the 10th MountainManeater and Tombstone. With those names, its not
Division trained on skis and snowshoes beforesurprising that it's a popular stretch of the river for
engaging in bloody combat in World War II. Robertrafters and kayakers.
Dole trained at the camp. So did the founders of theWe halt for a late supper in the Gas House, a popular
Aspen and Vail Ski Resorts.restaurant in Edwards, 15 miles west of Vail. Frequent
From Camp Hale, the highway begins its ascent toguests include Frank Gifford and Kathie Lee, who
the Continental Divide and Tennessee Pass, 10,424have a house nearby. Then its back to our b&b
feet above sea level. Fifteen minutes away and sixfor a night's long sleep.
feet higher is Leadville, which describes itself as North